Journal · Gear Guide

Aquaponics gear: what I actually use

There is a lot of aquaponics equipment out there, and most buying guides just throw a list of links at you. This is the opposite. For each part, I will tell you what it does, who it is for, why I would pick it, and what to watch out for, so you understand why it belongs in your system before you spend anything.

A quick note before the list: the exact model matters less than getting the category and the sizing right. A pump that is too weak will starve your grow beds; a test kit you find annoying to use is a test kit you will not use. I have organized this by what every system needs, roughly in the order you will shop for it.

The "check current price" links are affiliate links. If you buy through them, Akari Farms may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. I only recommend gear I would actually put in my own system, and the guidance here is the same whether you buy through the link or not.

Submersible water pump
Best for: every recirculating system. This is the heart.
WhatMoves water from your fish tank or sump up to the grow beds, so nutrients reach the plants and the water stays oxygenated. Sized in gallons per hour (GPH).
WhyAim to cycle your total system volume at least once per hour, and buy a pump rated higher than you think, because "head height" (how far up it has to push) cuts real output. For a 100-gallon system feeding beds a few feet up, look at 200 to 400 GPH.
Watch forThe rated GPH is at zero height. Check the pump's "max head" and its flow at your actual lift. A silent failure here starves plants and can crash a system, so many growers keep a spare.
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Air pump & air stones
Best for: every system, especially deep-water culture (DWC) rafts.
WhatPushes air through stones to keep dissolved oxygen high for fish, plant roots, and the beneficial bacteria that make the whole cycle work.
WhyOxygen is the single most common thing people under-provide. A dedicated air pump is cheap insurance, and in a raft system it is not optional. Get one rated for a bit more volume than you have.
Watch forCheap air pumps can be noisy and buzz. If it lives near living space, spend a little more for a quiet one. Keep spare air stones; they clog over time.
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Liquid water test kit
Best for: absolutely everyone, especially your first few months.
WhatMeasures ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and pH, the four numbers that tell you whether your system is healthy or heading for trouble.
WhyA liquid drop-based kit (rather than test strips) is more accurate and works out cheaper per test over time. In your first two months, testing is how you learn to read your system before problems become visible.
Watch forStrips are convenient but less precise and pricier per use. Whatever you pick, the best kit is the one you will actually use regularly.
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Clay pebbles (LECA) or lava rock
Best for: media-bed systems (the most beginner-friendly design).
WhatThe material that fills your grow bed, supports plant roots, and gives beneficial bacteria a huge surface area to colonize.
WhyExpanded clay (LECA) is lightweight, pH-neutral, and reusable for years, worth it for a bed you will run a long time. Lava rock is cheaper and works well if you do not mind the weight.
Watch forRinse any media thoroughly before use; it comes dusty and that dust clouds your water. Avoid limestone-based rock, which pushes pH up.
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Full-spectrum LED grow light
Best for: indoor systems, garages, or shady spots. Skip if you have strong sun.
WhatSupplies the light your plants need to grow when natural sunlight is not enough.
WhyA full-spectrum LED is efficient and runs cool. For leafy greens and herbs, you do not need the biggest, most expensive light, moderate output on a timer is plenty. Look for a fixture that covers your bed footprint.
Watch forWildly overspec'd "blurple" lights are a common overspend. If your system gets good sun, you may not need lights at all.
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Not sure how these fit together yet? Design your whole system first in the free Studio Builder, then this list will make a lot more sense.